Introduction
One of the tenants of any conceptual work is its ability to address, highlight, or otherwise communicate a concept. That seems like a no brainer right? Conceptual work has a concept. It follows then that the success of any conceptual work is based on its ability to successfully communicate its desired content. When applying this to jewelry (or any other functional work for that matter) we are faced with a quandary.
Transparency, for our purposes, is the ability of a medium to disappear so the viewer can focus solely on the content presented or depicted in the work. There is an inherent aptitude for transparency in different media, and unfortunately for jewelers, media which are representational and do not have applied function are able to become transparent more easily. I am talking quite abstractly here, so I feel a few case studies will illustrate just how transparency works.
From almost the beginning of painting, and certainly since the renaissance to the mid 19th century, painting as a medium was representational. The painter would attempt to capture life on their canvas. Take Reubens' Samson and Delilah (fig. 1). This is a transparent painting. When we look at it we immediately relate to the action taking place on the picture plane. We relate to the people, and if we were living in the 17th century (when this was painted), we would almost certainly recognize the biblical and allegorical references. It is very easy for the artist to deliver content or even to communicate through this representational mode. We do not however, stop to consider, at least at first, that we are looking at a painting.We look through the medium, as if it is transparent.
To contrast this, look at figure 2. This is a John Baldessari painting entitled What is Painting from 1966-68. In this painting the artist forces us to confront the medium through his use of language, as well as the meaning of the language itself. Perhaps the entire purpose of this painting is to draw attention to the fact that it is a painting. This work is not transparent, though it is very self-aware. Baldessari makes it impossible for the viewer to see past the canvas. He was a rebel, and after such a long tradition of painting being about image making, aesthetics, composition, trompe l'oeil, etc., Baldessari essentially renders the painting an object rather than an image.
In Photography
Transparency exists in other two dimensional media as well. In figure 3 we see the Dorothea Lange photograph, Shack. In this image we see a family on the porch of what we assume is their dwelling, a shack. Something that is true with both the Reubens and the Lange, is that the titles refer to the subjects of the images reinforcing the importance of the image. The purpose of Shack is undoubtedly to draw attention to the residents and their plight. Again a transparent photograph. The medium does not even begin to enter into our thinking as we look at this photograph.
Mel Bochner's photograph from his Measurement Series (fig. 4) is subtlely not transparent. At first we are confronted with the image of a ficus in front of a grid of measurements. What is not immediately apparent in this internet reproduction is scale. Originally the photograph was not printed to scale with the measurements on it. Inevitably the viewer realizes this glaring inaccuracy and is forced to confront the truth, that photographs are lies! They are depictions of reality, not reality itself. In that moment of realization the subject of the photograph is not important. Mel never cared about a ficus. He cared about the photograph becoming self-aware and the medium figuring prominently in the viewer's experience of this piece.


Fig. 4
In Sculpture
To illustrate that transparency is not unique to 2 dimensional works, the fifth image is a 2nd century equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius (fig. 5).

Fig. 5
While it could be argued that medium figures more prominently in this work than the previous 2 dimensional works shown, the representational and minutely detailed sculpture gives every indication of attempting to give the emperor immortality. We see him in all his regalia. We are clearly not meant to linger on the material from which he is created, but to celebrate the man. A transparent sculpture almost as old as christianity.
Fig. 6
Figure 6 shows Erwin Wurm's House Attack (2006). I am not quite sure what the medium is here, but I don't think that that matters really. In this piece two things are immediately apparent: 1. This is a sculpture 2. A house has fallen and become lodged into the side of the museum. So I guess the medium here is architecture... Either way there is little more to the piece than that humorous confrontation of public and private buildings. Certainly there is nothing to see through.In Jewelry
In the above comparisons the first figure of each pairing was a relatively early example of transparency in the history of that particular medium. In photography, painting, and sculpture artists reacted against the historically transparent media in order to create self-aware conceptual works. The thing about jewelry is that it has never been transparent. When we look at jewelry, we don't see through it to look at the content it contains, we look at it directly. We look at its objectness, we look at its craftsmanship, we covet it, we are seduced by AN OBJECT. If we attempt to communicate or infuse content into our jewelry for the sake of the viewer/wearer we are often thwarted because of the inherent preciousness and objectness of the medium. Further, it will take quite some undoing in order to retrain jewelry viewers to see more than just the jewel.
So here is that quandary I was talking about before; given that
1. jewelry is a medium that is conditioned not to communicate
AND
2. historically, conceptual artists have reacted against transparency in order to create self-aware conceptual works
THEN
THEN
What path should the conceptual metalsmith follow? Wow. Tough one. I'll try. Let's take it home.
Strategies for Conceptual Metalsmithing
The first thing to do is to try and ram that square peg into that round hole. The good news is that there are many trailblazers out there. People have made communicative jewelry, its not quite an oxymoron. I have to say though, that most jewelry that attempts to highlight more than its own objecthood fails at doing so. Most successful
communicative jewelry employs one of two strategies:
1. It is representational, utilizing traditional 2 or 3 dimensional strategies (such as Jessica Calderwood's Mother's Little Helper brooch (fig. 7). However, I would consider this piece more narrative than conceptual)
2. It uses the semiotic reading of its own materiality as the content. For instance using found materials or detritus to comment on recycling, or gold to comment on gold mining.
Fig. 8
A good example of this strategy is Jan Yager's American Collar II (fig. 8), in which she uses discarded drug paraphernalia to comment on inner city drug use.While I struggle in my own work to find effective ways to make conceptual jewelry, I am happy to share two additional strategies that are not so battle tested.
1. Self-awareness is one of the defining characteristics in the conceptual works above (figs. 2,4 & 6). Taking this into account, I made a series of self-referential rings. In The Narcissist Series (fig. 9) a two dimensional drawing of the ring is set into the ring, referencing the form itself.
Fig. 9
Certainly this is not the only way to draw attention to the medium itself. However, it does effectively draw attention to the objectness of the jewelry rather than becoming a static object exclusively.2. Supplemental devices that contextualize jewelry are also an effective way to communicate.
Fig. 10
I like this strategy myself, but here I find an ally in Robert Baines whose bracelet Java-la-Grande (fig. 10), from 2004-05, is supplemented by his lectures which could be construed as historical fiction. With extensive technical research Baines contextualizes the piece in relation to "known technology of the era." Further, Baines is not completely honest as he interjects contemporary objects into otherwise faithful historical recreations, all the while concealing the small (but obvious) inaccuracies. "Robert Baines Builds Fictious Jewellery." Baines' blending of actual advanced historical research with his studio practice allows for an ambiguous strategy unique to this academic maker. Though his activities reinforce each other, that is certainly not a requisite to the employ of a supplemental contextual device.In Conclusion
Since jewelry is not transparent it makes communication of content difficult. Some historic conceptual strategies do not accurately translate to jewelry. Canonic conceptual artists attempted to make work that thwarted transparency, making the work self-aware, while also highlighting the medium and rendering it an object. Because jewelers work in a medium that is not transparent to begin with we are forced to embrace our unique status and develop new and hybrid strategies in the pursuit of conceptual jewelry and conceptual metalsmithing.
Comments are most welcome, I am still wading through this one.
-Gabriel










7 comments:
I always enjoy reading your posts. You seem to address everything that weighs down all our minds in relation to the field. This particular topic is something that I have struggled with a lot recently, and personally, I have come to the conclusion that I don't want my medium to be transparent. I dont want to loose that in getting my concept across. I want concept and medium to address the viewer equally and symiotically. To me, they are both really important. And I do understand that often the medium itself is what conveys the message, as you pointed out with the American Collar, but I think that it is enough that when the object is a piece of jewelry, it is meant to be close to the body, in an intimate space, therefore chaging any message the piece may be conveying into something much more personal. I dont pretend to be a good writer, and Im nowhere near as articulate as you, but I hope what I am trying to say makes sense.
Thanks for another great topic.
Very interesting topic. I am very new to metalsmithing, but the issue of concept in jewelry is something that interests me very much.
I think a lot about what makes a piece cross the line between adornment and story-telling. Certainly there has been some jewelry over the last few years that has been more on the "story-telling" side, although I'm not sure that means "conceptual."
Thank you for writing about this. Please keep this blog going, I think it's very relevant.
Would it be possible for your blog to have a larger font? I enjoy reading, but can't stay long because it hurts my eyes. Thanks,
Elaine
Elaine,
I keep the font small because my posts get a bit long sometimes. You can change the font size on your screen in your browser preference. If you are on a mac just press the apple and + keys at the same time.
Hope that helps,
-Gabriel
Hi Gabriel,
Another thought provoking post!
I applaud your efforts to raise the intellectual level of jewelry-making, but I have to say that I'm bothered by the idea of 'conceptual metalsmithing' as the solution. A common complaint about the craft world is that its artists try to appropriate successful 'artworld' techniques into craft mediums and traditions and the results are usually dated, and pandering. I understand conceptual art and it was an extremely important movement for the worlds of painting, photography and sculpture, as you have shown. However, since, as you say, jewelry is inherently not transparent, how then can a strategy of trying to overcome transparency be an effective, or even timely (as conceptual art had it's hey-day in the 1980's) tactic for jewelers?
You say that jewelry is 'conditioned not to communicate.' Is this really true? Isn't the point of almost all jewelry, in fact, to communicate ideas of wealth, status, and social values? Of course it is, and most people--artists or not--know this.
As a teacher, like most teachers, I have to slowly introduce the idea that an object can be anything more than an object to my students (though once you point it out to them, they usually realize they already knew it), and that usually begins by tacking an idea onto a thing--make a box shaped like a tombstone with your grandpa's picture to represent his death (very bad example, but illustrative). This progresses, obviously to more complicated ideas, but once you point out to someone how much they know and can learn from the things around them, it's not hard to make them see that objects are not static, and objects--particularily the useful ones--have a communicative power other artforms do not have, simply because they allow for, or require interaction. This is the particular strength of craft, and jewelry--which is not to say that all craft-art has to be functional, but that the history of use, or intimacy, which all people have experienced because they live in a world of things, gives craft a playing field all its own.
My point is that metalsmithing has value of its own and the interesting ideas/topics/thoughts about it need to be based on the reality of the material and its history and current directions, not on an idea that worked well for some entirely different medium and time. Maybe my assessment is Metcalf-ian, but I think there are more contemporary ideas and issues facing our world than the conceptual art movement.
I, personally, would advocate a 'thoughtful metalsmithing' movement, over a 'conceptual' one.
Hope that all makes sense!
-Corey
Corey,
Indeed what you say makes perfect sense. In fact I agree with most of what you are saying, though I come to a different conclusion. Craft is indeed its own playing field, but I feel that always having to take into account the historical issues of the medium limit its communicative potential.
In fact, I often feel that it is our dedication to traditions and historical limits that determine the parameters of what can be done, or better, what can be a successful piece of jewelry. Its kind of like having to wear rose colored glasses all the time. I feel that this approach can be stifling for the maker and insular to our community (makers, academics, collectors, gallerists, etc). However, that does not make the work deficient in any way, only limited in communicative potential. Hence the title of the post. I see transparency as a vehicle to more effective communication.
One of my goals is to be open and inclusive. I can see studio jewelry as a mode that could be interesting to a much larger audience. The culture at large if you will.
Conceptualism is one strategy to allow jewelry (and metalsmithing) to appeal to a wider audience. As for the conceptual movements in painting, photography, sculpture, etc., everything we know and understand about postmodern art is predicated on their example. I feel strongly that jewelry (and crafts) rely on many modernist conventions (see my post on modernism). By looking to historic examples and strategies for making postmodern art we may be able to glean lessons that are applicable to our own practice, though as I pointed out in my post they are not directly translatable. How different is basing your jewelry on memento mori (which has historically been used in both art and craft media) from basing your jewelry on conceptual strategies?
For me it is NOT about imitating artists or by-gone art movements, it is about finding a strategy to bring jewelry to a wider audience.
To each their own, truly and honestly. There is not right way, just the way we choose.
Thanks for reading,
-Gabriel
Hi Gabriel,
I actually completely agree that simply relying on the historical context of our field to give work conceptual weight is very limiting, and frankly, a little overdone.
I guess what I strive to communicate is that people and objects have an ongoing narrative or relationship and it's one that every single person participates in. No one goes through life without using things, or thinking somethings are important. This can be the playing field, it is historical, and current, craft-related and ubiquitous.
Of course, I did not intend to imply that your thinking is wrong, just that I had an alternative point of view. I hope I have added to the conversation and look forward to hearing all points of view on this topic.
-Corey
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